Early Summer Haunts in Kamakura

Posted on May 10, 2007 by Faith Kitsunezaki

On Monday of the Golden weekAnnual holiday. Period containing Showa Day, Consitution Memorial Day, People's Day, and Children's Day. holiday we ventured to visit KamakuraAncient capital of Japan during the Kamakura shogunate, from 1185 to 1333. One hour from Tokyo. Very cultural city where best of traditional Japan is still alive.. It turned out to be a hot day of 28 degrees yet not accompanied with the humidity that middle summer brings. The old streets were a bustle with people both young and old, Japanese as well as foreigner, all toting a camera. We were armed with the latest ‘Kamakura walker’ (a magazine that you can buy at any big bookstore like Tsutaya), and all the anticipation that a first visitor has to a place.

After meandering down the tiny lanes which very much remind me of the older streets of Europe we took advantage of a lazy lunch at one of the not too busy side street restaurants. Our baby girl Sofia was at this point becoming quite sleepy so we hailed a cab to go to our desired location, a much quieter destination; Houkokuji Shrine.

Houkokuji Shrine is a sanctuary amongst all the craziness of the holiday streets of Kamakura. After a taxi ride of 5 minutes or so you find yourself in front of an opened gateway seemingly made of newly cut wood with an equally new smell about it, which is in contrast to the history of the shrine and its accompanying bamboo grove. A walk up the grey slate pathway leads you to steps that go up towards the shrine.

In front of the shrine to the left hand side you will find a ticket box from which you can buy a ticket for ￥700. This entitles you to walk through the bamboo grove beyond and also comes along with a coupon to enjoy a cup of maccha (traditionally green tea whipped from powder and served in a small bowl) at the end of the grove in an outdoor teahouse.

The quietness of the bamboo grove is amazingly serene and when you stop to think that this grove along with its shrine were established in the 1300’s, it makes it even more awe inspiring as you gaze upwards to see sun glinting off the top leaves of the moso bamboo trees.

The moso bamboos are famed as the largest and fastest growing bamboo in the world, most taking only 57 days from shoot to tree!

Spotted throughout the grove along the pathway you can find statues and monuments to long ago gods and spirits and also pondering points such as a moss overgrown stone lantern.

Although this may only be literally a 5 minute fast walk, if you take your time to look up and around you will truly feel the spirit of the place. Towards the end of the grove you find yourself at the outdoor teahouse, where you present your tea coupon to one of the 4 obaachan’s (granny or older lady), upon which you are given a card with a number on it. When your order is ready they will call ‘roku ban’ (number 6) or whatever number is ready, if that is your number then you can then collect your tray with the freshly whipped maccha tea in a bowl accompanied with two little sugar sweets in the shape of bamboo.

In the tea house they have dark wooden benches that look out into the grove itself. It is all dark natural light of the forest here. As I sit and sip at my bitter yet refreshing maccha, I wonder if a Samurai or even a Shogun spent time sitting enjoying the peaceful coolness of the grove on a hot sunny day centuries before now.

As I close my eyes, I am reminded and struck with a sudden homesickness for New Zealand as every sound that emanates from the forest is so alike and akin to the forests back home. The rustle of the top leaves in the breeze, the waterfall in the distance resonating against the stone face of the mountain, the echo of the birds’ song through it all. A tear drops from my eyes.

On the path back to the shrine and the exit we can see the old tombs in the rock face of the mountain, what a peaceful place to lay, surrounded by all this beauty of green and now the pink of the azaleas.

Lastly we glimpse the shrine again in full sun array on a lazy afternoon, and we are revived mentally and perhaps spiritually to join the throngs of Golden week visitors in the streets below.

As we ride in the taxi back to Kamakura station we wish that we could partake of the many wonders of Kamakura. The taxi driver on overhearing us declares that Kamakura is a wonderful place full of many discoveries. He informs us that, if visited during the week or on a Sunday there are far less people thus allowing us to take time in our wanderings.

The good thing about Kamakura is not only the array of shrines, the old shopping streets or even the smiling faces of the shop owners; it is the diversity of it all, the bustling streets, the cool forests, the sacred places, the mountains, the beach, all within walking distance or a quick bus ride from the station!

A quick stop at one of the kimono stores lends me to find some ‘omiyagi’ or souvenirs for friends and family, a hemp eyeglass case with red sakuraRefers to both ornamental cherry trees and their blossoms. (cherry blossom) print, a pair of silken tabi(足袋) Traditional split-toed socks for use with sandals. socks (the type to go with zori(草履 zōri) Traditional sandals made from a variety of different natural and synthetic materials. (shoes to accompany kimono)), or in my case to wear around the house when feeling Japanese, and lastly a cloth for the table also made out of the hemp material this time with a purple geometric pattern on.

Do I recommend Kamakura? YES! Would I go again? YES!