Shikoku’s Sacred 88 Temple Pilgrimage

Posted on May 11, 2007 by Jamie

Shikoku’s Sacred 88 Temple Pilgrimage is Japan’s most famous pilgrimage. In Japanese it is called “hachijuhakkasho-meguri”. It covers the circumference of Shikoku Islands, approximately 1,647km! Today, many pilgrims complete the circuit by car or by tour bus. However, there are still some that complete the route on foot. A pilgrim, or “Ohenro san” in Japanese, usually wears a white jacket and a traditional straw hat. On foot, the pilgrimage can take 60 days! While traveling, the pilgrims can often stay at the various temples or special inns for Ohenro san.

The pilgrimage was found by a famous 8th century Buddhist called Kukai (posthumously called “Kobo Daishi”). He is the founder of the Shingon Sect of Japanese Buddhism. The pilgrimages began in the 14th century honouring Kobo Daishi and using 88 temples (and 20 unnumbered temples called “bangai”) he either founded or restored around his homeland of Shikoku. As you complete the pilgrimage you collect signatures from each temple in a special book. To have your devotion recognized, you must bring the completed book to Kyosan, the head temple of the Shingon Sect, near Osaka. Some complete the pilgrimage many times. The words “Dogyo Ninin” are often written on their jackets, which means “Two Traveling Together” implying the pilgrim is walking with Kobo Daishi.

Matsuyama, the largest city on Shikoku, has 8 of the 88 temples. Ishite-ji(#51) is probably the most famous in Ehime. It is near Dogo OnsenA hot spring, often used for bathing. Bathing facilities are often, but not always, communal. May be outdoor or indoor. , and contains a wondrous cave with many images of Buddha. It also has many statues and building that indicate a strong India influence (Hindi gods and such), as well as a temple building given by Myanmar. Its three-storey pagoda is said to house a bone a Buddha. Taisan-ji (#52) is also breathtaking. Its bell tower contains marvellous and disturbing images of Judgement Day, Heaven and Hell.

I personally loved seeing giant Buddha footprints and hand prints. I will always remember the smells and sounds of the temples. I visited Ishite-ji many times, and the sent of incense permeates the area vast temple complex. As for the sounds, temples have gong-like bells, which have a very hallowed and relaxing sound. This is in stark contrast to ShintoThe traditional animistic belief system of Japan. It was the official state religion of Japan until the postwar period. shrines that have noisy bells and people clapping their hands while praying.

If you can take time off work or wait until you retire, I would highly recommend completing the 88 temple pilgrimage. Many foreigners have said they felt moved by this life changing experience. I look forward to completing it myself someday!