Stepping back in time in Takayama
This small town near Japan's southern alps was strongly recommended by my guide book and as I was spending my holiday in Nagano prefecture nearby I thought it would be a good idea to check it out. The bus ride from Matsumoto was as spectacular as anything I had experienced over the past few days. The road wound through valleys and mountains all covered in a thick carpet of green foliage. The small villages and roadside stops were inundated with tour buses and cars; the crowds head for the mountains in the summer months and it's easy to see why.
It rained nearly all the way from Matsumoto but luckily the worst of the weather had passed when I arrived. Part of the (many) joys those of us fortunate enough to travel experience from time to time is visiting somewhere without knowing much about it. Travelling this way has its advantages. With no preconceptions you're less likely to be disappointed and more there's a greater likelihood of being surprised and impressed.
What I had longed to see in Japan was a pedestrian city with most of its sights withing walking distance. Walking is the nicest way to experience a new place. A few months back when visiting Kyoto I had similar expectations – until I saw the size of the city. In Kyoto only trains, buses and taxis suffice. Takayama is small and compact enough to wander around without getting lost or tiring yourself out trying to get to see everything. When I went on my first stroll through the town I thought it felt like I was walking around a mini Kyoto. Temples, shrines pervade this town and several narrow streets have been preserved to give a feel of what life was like in Japan hundreds of years before tarmac and neon.
A treasure in near this town is the Hida Cultural Village. A collection of houses dating from the last two hundred or so years and from places all around Nagano prefecture have been carefully relocated here. Very few places give such an interesting insight into a country's history. Before the days of concrete, steel and roads life was pretty daunting in Nagano. During the region's unforgiving winters many of the towns were cut off from the outside world which meant the people living there had to be self sufficient or face the miserable prospect of trying to survive lengthy periods of time being snowed in. Houses were carefully designed to withstand the winters. Many were built in an a-shape to reduce pressure on the structure from snow lying on the roof for weeks or even months on end. The a-shape also served another purpose. It represented two hands in prayer, thus incorporating Buddhism into this aspect of life.
Takayama has enough to keep the average visitor captivated for several days. Even if you don't make it for the float festival (one of the biggest in Japan), being able to take your time wandering around the town is an experience second to none, especially in Japan. When you feel you need to get away from the crowds Takayama will transform you to Japan as I think it used to be.
| 
| 
