Impressions of Nagasaki

Posted on July 18, 2007 by tbell

Located on the southern island of Kyushu, Nagasaki-ken has an illustrious history and beautiful scenery. It is home to the best natural harbor on the island, making it a center of trade and exchange for hundreds of years.

Nagasaki City itself is quite tame for half a million people. It is nestled in a scenic valley that opens around its famous harbor. Buildings and temples line the mountain sides, lending the feeling the city is looming over you. Cobblestone streets and a public tram add likable character to the otherwise cookie cutter gray concrete buildings Japanese cities are known for. Between the hills and tram, it is a bit like an Asian San Francisco.

Historically it’s a rich city. Nagasaki’s port was for many years the main contact to the outside world including Holland, Portugal, China, and Korea. During Japan’s closed century Nagasaki was the only city where foreigners were allowed, and their numbers were kept low. That changed, though, by 1853 when Matthew Perry came knocking with a few war ships. An ultimatum was set and Perry returned several years later of an answer. Nagasaki and Japan as a whole decided to open up to the rest of the world and by the 1860’s the Meji Restoration was well under way. Today Christian churches, Dutch houses, and a Chinatown are reminiscent to these connections.

But, all of this is drastically overshadowed by the events of August 9, 1945 when Nagasaki suffered the world’s second atomic bomb attack. Today, a peace park and museum commemorate the nearly 74,000 people who died. The Peace Park is home to a famous statue. The right hand points up to warn of the threat of nuclear weapons and the left outstretched to convey peace.

Of the main attractions, several struck my interest. The site of the 26 Martyrs of Japan marks the hill where 26 foreign and local Christians (including two children) were crucified in an effort to ban Christianity. The immense metal statue of Kannon riding a turtle was a pleasant surprise overlooking the city. (I’m a sucker for giant Buddha statues, they are so photogenic.) The ropeway up Mt. Inasa yielded an amazing view of the city. Finally, the Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace Park were well done. Sobering images, melted bottles, bloodied military uniforms, and archival footage all lent an understanding of the tragedy.

Nightlife is not big draw for Nagasaki, but in terms of historical significance and scenic beauty few cities rival this one. Its long history of trade means a variety of culinary dishes and material goods can be sought out. Quite and relaxing, Nagasaki should not be missed.